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    Mast deck ring

    Home › Forums › Technical – View only › Mast deck ring

    • This topic has 14 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 19 years, 9 months ago by X.
    Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
    • Author
      Posts
    • 13th November 2006 at 1:23pm #179
      tony thresher
      Participant

      Can anybody remind me of the correct angle to machine a new deck bearing ring to allow for an average rake? Had the figure written down once upon a time but cant find it anymore.
      Thanks.
      Tony Thresher

      14th November 2006 at 1:22pm #1871
      davecooper
      Participant

      8 degrees? 10 degrees? Just a guess. How do you machine them, Tony? The only times I’ve tried, I’ve bolted the blank onto a lathe faceplate, with a chock under one end to get the angle, and then bored the hole out, but it’s not a very satisfactory way to do it. It’s very difficult to set it up so that you bore dead through the centre, so I have to make the blank a bit oversize and then mill away the edges until the hole’s in the middle!
      When you get a definitive answer for the angle, maybe you could let me know and it can go on a technical page with Alan’s kicker lever drawing, if he doesn’t mind publishing it.
      Can anybody suggest a good angle for the wedge under a centre mainsheet jammer?
      Dave Cooper

      14th November 2006 at 1:39pm #1872
      RB
      Participant

      Dave,

      Picking up on your last sentence.

      if you are going to use a centre jammer why not just put the cleat upside down, that way all you have to do is give it a gentle tap with the foot or flick of the wrist, anyway I didn’t think centre jammers were widley used in OK’s? Obviously this is down to individual preference but do you find them easy to use so low in the boat?

      ATB

      Richard

      14th November 2006 at 2:03pm #1873
      tony thresher
      Participant

      Terry Curtis informs me 10 degrees.

      In answer to how I machine them? I dont but I know a man who can. If you want one made up give me a few weeks notice and the dimensions and I’ll get one made. I have plenty of black Nylon 6 so you dont have to supply the material. Dont know what the latest cost for the job is but I’ll know by the end of this evening.

      Tony

      14th November 2006 at 3:16pm #1874
      RB
      Participant

      Tony,

      Do you know a man that can make kicker levers for less than £65 as priced on Victor boats website?

      14th November 2006 at 6:04pm #1875
      tony thresher
      Participant

      Richard

      No but you can make one yourself out of old spreaders or the like. Cut two pieces to the required length of your lever. Bolt them to the boom at the pivot point.and join the bottom ends together with a suitable bolt and spacer. Drill holes at the top of the spreaders to take shackle to attach wire and your triple block can be attached to the bolt/spacer at the bottom. I’ve had mine on my boat for some years now and it hasn’t and doeasn’t look like failing. I’ll try and remember to take a picture this weekend and mail it to you next week.

      Tony.

      14th November 2006 at 7:08pm #1876
      RB
      Participant

      Tony,

      Thanks.

      I have actually made one from some aluminium only the mass produced levers for the likes of Finns do look more professional!

      What would you say is the minimum thickness for a piece of aluminium to be used as a lever?

      The one I have made looks quite nifty and is based upon dimensions supplied a while back by Alan Price just a little worried of its strengt!! :?

      Thanks

      Richard

      15th November 2006 at 6:10pm #1877
      davecooper
      Participant

      Thanks, Tony. Richard: I had a centre-line jammer on 1918 and it’s fine, but you need a wedge under the swivel base or else the angle is impossibly steep when you’re sitting right aft. I think I actually prefer a jammer on the side deck, but my redesigned side decks are going to be contoured to allow the traveller to run out further and I think it’ll be tough to find anywhere to put the jammers.
      Dave Cooper

      15th November 2006 at 8:57pm #1878
      Alan Price
      Participant

      Hello All,
      Well , I’m pleased my lever dimensions and hopefully the short description/photos have been of use.
      If you would like to post them Dave, please feel free.
      I’m no engineer and have limited metal work skills so I’m sure it could be improved and made neater although mine has been in active service for 4 years and done a good job.
      Sorry, can’t help with the mast ring.

      15th November 2006 at 9:07pm #1879
      Russell Hopkins
      Participant

      Alan, i have used the dimensions from your system which Richard forwarded on to me, i used some old Albacore spreaders, shroud platesand some stainless threaded bar, i also borrowed some triple blocks from my albacore (whilst it is drying out for the winter) but these will have to go back on the alb when i sell it!!

      15th November 2006 at 10:49pm #1880
      davecooper
      Participant

      Hi Alan
      Can you let me have a copy of your kicker lever design please?
      My lever is made of a piece of aluminium channel 4.4mm thick (must be about 6 gauge I suppose). It’s black anodised just like all the other ones on needlespar booms. I can’t imagine that anything that was an adequate dinghy spreader won’t be an excellent kicker lever.
      Dave Cooper

      17th November 2006 at 12:56pm #1881
      NickCraig
      Participant

      Hello
      I’ve used both centre jammers and sidedeck cleats.
      I prefer sidedeck cleats.

      It is harder to trim downwind and play the main in marginal conditions upwind with a centre jammer as it gets in the way a bit no matter how well designed your system.

      Sidedeck cleats do have the downsides that its harder work coming out tacks when windy as it takes longer to get the main in the cleat so you have to hold it in longer. And it is possible to mistakenly knock the main out the cleat whilst adjusting the traveller, as I did in AUS. However, its very funny for everyone else who sails past you whilst you are capsized to windward!

      Cheers
      Nick

      17th November 2006 at 9:42pm #1882
      Mike Edwards
      Participant

      Do you ever do any work Specky?

      I agree with Nick in principle regarding cleats. I have used both in my time sailing OK’s and now use a centre jammer.

      I think that side deck cleats are great, if you have the staminer and strength to cope in a long and windy race. But I realistically need the centre jammer on a broad reach in windy conditions. Plus, being able to cleat sooner through a tack helps.

      Getting the right angle is critical as Dave suggests. If it is not perfect, you will either find it a nightmare to cleat or a struggle to uncleat.

      I would suggest to anyone to try both before making a decision and consider the pros and cons in different conditions.

      Cheers

      Mike

      18th November 2006 at 1:13pm #1883
      davecooper
      Participant

      It is harder to trim downwind and play the main in marginal conditions upwind with a centre jammer as it gets in the way a bit no matter how well designed your system

      Well, I’ve certainly never done anthing like that, so a centre jammer wouldn’t necessarily be a problem, but the swivelly bit with the jammer on costs £53 at my local chandler, so I can suddenly see the force of Nick’s argument!
      Dave Cooper

      28th November 2006 at 6:05pm #1884
      X
      Participant

      Hi Dave,

      If your traveller is cut into the sidedecks, you can put the cleats in front of the traveller. Just make sure that the mainsheet can’t fall in them to leeward. very annoying when you come out of a gybe & your main is cleated out !!!!

    • Author
      Posts
    Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
    • The forum ‘Technical – View only’ is closed to new topics and replies.

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