Tagged: Mast weight boom weight
26th February 2017 at 12:41pm #16983Martin WardParticipant
I have changed the halyard on my alloy proctor mast and re-weighted my mast. The mast now weights 8.3 kgs. The rules say that the mast must weight a minimum of 8kgs. I understand that the rules are referring to carbon masts but should sailors with alloy masts be looking at changing mast collars or other fittings to reduce their mast weight to the minimum? I haven’t thought about the point of balance test at this point as I am assuming that the change in halyard from a thick to thin modern halyard affect the weight along the length of the mast
I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts?
Martin Ward27th February 2017 at 1:22pm #17005DougPowellParticipant
Extract from the rules:
Mast weight inc mast base, deck ring, halyard, cleat, blocks, any corrector weights, and excluding gooseneck pin. Min weight = 8 kg
Corrector weights permanently fixed to the external surfaces of the spar. Max weight = 1.5 kg
So I would assume (excluding complex balance tests/center of gravity) that you can change anything on a mast as long as it weighs 8kg+ (incl. a max of 1.5kg in correctors)5th May 2017 at 10:22am #17425Bill BParticipant
I would not get too bothered about reducing the weight of a Proctor mast – it is already lighter than all the Needlespars. The bigger issue will be getting it stiff enough at the bottom, especially sideways.
Whatever you do – do not drill any holes in the front for bearing fixings or halyards. It will crack from the hole and break.
The rules were drawn around wood masts that could be lighter and have a low c of g. It is only since composite build that we have returned to weighing masts.
Bill6th May 2017 at 10:45am #17431Martin WardParticipant
Thank you for the reply. I was really surprised to find out just how light weight the Proctor is. I assume that they were purchased by lightweight sailors or for light weather sailing? Unfortunately my mast does have a hole for the halyard at the front of the mast and some smaller holes for fitting. May be I should weld these up? Or should I strengthen the mast with a carbon epoxy laminate?
I wonder whether anyone has tried this kind of repair?
I am also surprised that no one seems to try and make their own masts with today’s Mig and Tig welding technology? After all people mend their cars like this all the time.
I assume you now have to be registered as a mast manufacturer to build spars?
Martin Ward6th May 2017 at 2:55pm #17432Bill BParticipant
The Proctor masts were one of the first generation metal masts for OKs along with Boyce who both made lighter extrusions with welded tapers. Needlespars were heavier but stiffer and tougher.
I would go for a stiff mast and a medium to flat sail for light weather sailing. The Proctor was not particularly aimed at light people, just an early attempt when we were allowed metal.
I don’t think welding the mast will do much good, the heat will affect too much and you need to heat treat the whole thing after and then get it anodised which also alters the characteristics.
Have a look to see if there is a sleeve pushed up inside the mast as a stiffener – you could replace it or add to it. I seem to remember that those masts were double thick metal at the bottom.
It is very hard to get epoxy to stick to aluminium properly but try by all means.
Proctor made a bendier section and the a slightly stiffer section – from memory the first were black ( I had one) and the later ones silver although the only reliable way to tell which was which was by looking inside the basic extrusion. They sold a few but were not as successful as
Needlespars because they bent too much low down and were prone to breaking. Needlespars seem to last for ever. Boyce went on to make a Needlespar lookalike after a couple of versions of conventional welded tube types.
Wood was still a better material in some ways but became expensive and varied according to the weather as well as breaking when older. I still wonder about making a wood mast with epoxy to see how it could work. The great thing about them was that you could alter them. We used to buy a good sail in those days and then make the mast fit it. Now we cut the sail to fit the mast.
A good tip to get an increase on performance is to look out for someone who would sell a known used mast and sail set.
I would use your Proctor till it fails and then invest in a newer rig. More modern masts which have better sideways stiffness are more predictable downwind in a breeze and give much better “height” upwind.
The plus side of carbon masts seems to be that they last a long time if they are looked after and kept out of the sunshine. I wouldn’t bother with the Selden first generation round carbon masts but look for a Ceilidh or Ctech.
You only need a license to build carbon masts (all to do with regulating what materials you use).
You can build your own metal one but in the end you will find that you need a lot of metal to get an unstayed mast nearly as good as a Needlespar.
As a note on Needlespar colours – you will hear people talk about the colour of the tip relating to the bend. I once asked David Hunt (Mr Needlespar) about this and he told me that he just had the colour of the day – he didn’t relate the colour to the bend. My last two Needles both had blue tips and one was the stiffest I ever owned and the other was the softest!! The stiffness is more to do with the tube, the number of joints to get the taper and how low down the taper starts.
Bill29th August 2018 at 4:31pm #18804PaaalParticipant
Is there any history to metal booms and their weight have booms weighing between 3-8kg. Assuming the heavier are less prone to bend but seems quite a difference.
- The forum ‘Technical – View only’ is closed to new topics and replies.