OK 1225…..

[JonTweeds]

Does anyone kow any history on this boat?
I think that’s the right number – all wood, black hull with varnished decks, apparently in good condition.
I’m off to have a look at it on Sunday….

[burt]

its really old

[JonTweeds]

Thanks.

*sticks out tongue*

*blows raspberry*

[X]

Check in the front tank – if the boat is varnished in the tank rather than painted it is likely to be a Peter Crew boat. He was building quite a few boats around that number and they were really good boats. If its been looked after it might be a bargain – Check the mast step and the hog in the bow. Thats where they rot first sitting bow down in the dinghy park. If not already done it will need some work to move the step forward to take a modern rig.
Cheers
Terry

[JonTweeds]

Thanks X – I’m told it’s in goos shape, and has a needlespar blue-top which sounds about right for me. *crosses fingers*

[andyt15064]

Can’t tell you much from the class records except that it was first registered in May 1968. It’s name was Joker.

Andy

[JonTweeds]

Thanks for the info Andy – while you may be looking at this, how do I go about getting Class Membership sorted, and is the Training Video (disc?) that I’ve seen mention of still available?

[JonTweeds]

Had a very brief look at the boat this afternoon – looks in good shape!

Downsides appear to be old fashioned “drum”style kicker, and under deck controls….
Any idea how much it would cost to get these 2 areas updated please?

[andyt15064]

Hi Jon – my details re membership are at the top of the second hand boatlist. It’s easy enough to block off the holes and move the controls over deck. Also you can make yourself a kicker lever from bolts and bits of aluminium and get rid of the drum arrangement. I believe there are articles on both of these on the OK website.

Andy

[Alan Price]

Hello John.

Yes, there is an “Technical” article somewhere on this site about how to make yourself a kicker lever that was taken from an email that I sent to someone. I’m no engineer but it gives details with pics of the reasonable DIY kicker job i did on 1211 quite a few years back. It is a matter of your time rather than £s and the same goes for blocking off all the holes left by a redundant underdeck set up.

I’ve been replying to your postings on the CVRDA forum too. I’m getting quite involved with progress on your search for a boat. 1225 might never set the OK open meetings ablaze but there were some cracking wooden boats built in her era. If you close the deal and become the proud owner ,you must tell me/us all about her.
Best of luck

Andy… Interesting about the registration date for this boat. The certificate for 1211 only shows 1968 as a build date. What have you got on 1211?

[barhelm]

John
I have recently converted 1963 from drum kicker to Lever. I followed the very good technical Article from Alan.
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to work out and remove the old drum system! About an hour to cut and profile the lever, then trip to Welsh Harp for bolts, triple block, double block and some new racing excel string! the highest price was the blocks. You pays your money and takes your choice. The total cost for every thing was £64.00 and about 4 man hours.
I have used some spare laser traveller line for the strop, whilst I make a wire one.
I will try and attach a photo for you.
Everything is on hold at the moment due to beck injury.
Jeff H

[JonTweeds]

Thanks Jeff, I’ve been studying the pictures in the Tech Article very closely!

Well, the big news is that I’ve just done the deal on 1225!!!

Sailed it this morning, with a very poorly matched sail (Cameron’s spare for black-top), and while the sail was horrible on the blue top mast, and none of the controls worked (all under deck), but the hull is in very good shape and let in not a drop. Cameron had a quick go to compare it to his and suggested that it “felt” lighter.

So, I guess that this week I’ll be shopping for:
13 20mm blocks
1 triple block
1 double block
8 cleats
Lots of metres of different coloured dyneema

….. anything else required? What thickness of dyneema hould I be using for the controls? 3mm? 4mm?

[burt]

4mm I use 5 on the kicker I like to put it on properly sometimes

[JonTweeds]

Thanks Richard I’m hoping to do it in a similar way to yours…… is iit worth epoxying a strip of aluminium under the foredeck to bolt the eyelets through, and another for the cleats – is this the way to go?

[burt]

that or a bit of thick ply works

[Author]

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