Rigging problem
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hi can anyone help me to rig a 1961 all wooden ok? there does not seem to be any provision for a kicking strap
for example i would rearly apreciate some help with this, i’v just restored the boat and just want get sailing!!Hi Kev,
Here’s some kicker arrangements from 1961 (yours, probably!) through to present-day. If you don’t have any other arrangement, it was probably a wedge. A cleat back on the boom somewhere would be a giveaway. If you have to make a new wedge it needs to be really hard wood (oak, ash, something like that), pine is way too soft. When you rig your boat you need to hoist the sail ashore then pull the boom down and pull the wedge in. Not too far! It ISN’T adjustable while sailing! You need to be able to get under it tacking and jibing! It isn’t the best arrangement, but it’ll get you sailing soonest and you will be able to enjoy(?) a totally 1961 experience. Just don’t forget to duck!
Dave Cooper.PS.
Due to the high local loads I wouldn’t suggest trying the lever arrangement with a wooden rig. The strut thing is ok but it was a lot of work and they were prone to going wrong with a bang if it was breezy! I think a cascade arrangement would be quick and practical. (Saw someone with that at Brightlingsea. Who was that? Anyone?)hi dave thanks for the diagrams mine is the first one the wedge like you say a real 1960’s experiance any ideas
on the main sheet arrangment?Hi Kev,
The mainsheet arrangement is pretty free, but every OK I’ve seen bar one looked like the attached pic. The exception had the track mounted across the deck just forward of the cockpit: can’t imagine it worked very well!
Don’t forget to put a knot in the sheet – if you limit the boom to about 70 or 80 degrees off the centre line it’ll save you quite a few swims (if you are new to this kind of rig – obviously if you’re coming to oks from finns or something you already know that!) and you can always move the knot back when you get expert or don’t care about swimming (like me ) and want to let the boom out to 90 degrees or more!
The other thing that might seem a bit different from other boats you’ve sailed is the halyard: oks like yours (and lots still do) have a short wire strop that engages a halyard lock on the front of the mast about 150-200mm (6″-8″) below the pulley sheave at the top. I might have a pic somewhere. Yup:
This shows the mast hanging up in the boatshed: the strop is as it would be with the sail at the top: the swage is just by the halyard lock that engages it: think it’s fairly obvious how it works? The idea is that if you have a halyard cleat at the bottom of the mast the mast is subject to the halyard tension plus the luff tension, whereas if the halyard is secured at the top, it’s just the luff tension. Wooden masts quite often got compression damage, so that was important.
Davethanks again dave the mast rigging is quite basic just a groove in th mast and a pully at the top!
and the traveler is as you described a metal rod at the front of the cockpit i will have to se how i get on with that
the mainsheet diagrame looks just fine thanks again kevin :mrgreen:
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